Friday, December 24, 2010

The Italian Christmas Eve Tradition of the Seven Fish Dinner
Is it truth or myth? Both!
A lot of people have the mistaken idea that the custom of the, “seven fish dinner” is steeped in Italian history and ritual and that the whole practice originated in southern Italy and specifically in Sicily, going back centuries.

First of all, not every Italian or Italian Region celebrated this tradition until recently. In fact, until the late 50’s or early 60’s many families in Italy and Greece as well as Italian-Americans and Greek Americans in the USA were not rich but close to poor; let us say they could afford very little so that they just had, maybe a one or two cheap fish fry-up, for which Mamma saved pennies for a whole year; and that was their Christmas Eve dinner, along with a nice plate of pasta. Most Greeks don’t celebrate Christmas Eve,

It’s pretty clear and acceptable that good Catholics do eat meat on Christmas Eve in celebration of the birth of the Christ, and sometimes, especially in the U. S. had tuna fish mixed in with macaroni and that was their Christmas Eve dinner.

Myth tells us that the custom of eating seafood on Christmas Eve dates from the medieval times, not true! The Catholic tradition of abstinence, in this case refraining from eating meat or milk products on Fridays and specified Holy Days goes back maybe to the late 19th Century. The tradition stipulates that no meat or butter can be consumed, so attentive Catholics would instead eat fish, often fried with other seafood prepared for the Christmas feast.

Lore says that most families always serve seven combinations, these being fried or boiled dried salt cod, fresh (if in Italy, frozen in the USA) or salted anchovies and sardines; octopus, shrimp, smelts, eels, squid, mussels, oysters and clams in sauces over spaghetti and also baked.

Remember that wives, mothers, until the late 60’s did not work, they took care of the kids and house, bless them. Something that, unfortunately, is not possible today. It was the man that was the main wage earner, not that some wives and mothers did not work, but most did not. Therefore, it stands to reason that when you have one wage earner, and in the 50’s and 60’s that averaged from about $75 to $130 a week, and certain type of fish being expensive, even by those past years standards, it’s a little hard to imagine doing so many fish dishes and imagine it started with farmers doing this dinner.

Take a recent statement I read, “…While researching the background of this tradition I was surprised to find out that it is not always simply seven seafood dishes prepared but some feel there must be seven different types of seafood served, while others traditionally serve ten or thirteen fish dishes each Christmas Eve…”

Let’s be serious, at present fish prices:

Salt cod; $ 8.50 a pound
Fresh (if in Italy, frozen in the USA) anchovies and sardines; $ 6.95 a pound
Salted anchovies and sardines; $ 4.50 a pound
Octopus; $7.95 a pound
Shrimp; medium size ay 18-20’s $ 9.99 a pound
Smelts; $ 4.50 a pound
Eels (smoked); $ 12.50 a pound
Eel (fresh); $ 9.90 a pound (if you are lucky)
Squid; $ 8.79 a pound
Mussels; $ 6.50 a pound
Oysters; $12.00 a dozen
Clams (cherrystone); $ 4.95 a dozen

How many people are you having for Christmas Eve dinner – 10 or 12 well if we all get together as a family, and exclude the in-laws, yeah we’re there at a cost of about $ 300. But most Italian-American Christmas Eve gatherings number 20 plus for a conservative cost is about $ 750 plus and that is for fish alone and if we add the remainder like a few vegetable side dishes, and a few tasty desserts.

With the present economic situation, both in the USA and Europe, these types of festive and joyful, but costly holiday gatherings are starting to wither.

The Greeks and Greek-Americans never had this tradition. However, seeing their Italian-American neighbors, some have started to celebrating Christmas Eve, and I can assure you they don’t have the seven fish dinners, although they will probably start one soon, for we are copy-cats

Saturday, December 4, 2010



Christmas Cookies

At Christmas if these cookies are not made, it feels like the house is empty and non festive. They aroma adds so many aromas to the house and surroundings that we make sure a lot of them get made. So, here is my wife’s and my recipe which will be in the cookbook, hopefully to be published soon.


SICILIAN FIG COOKIES
CUDDUREDDI

10 Eggs
6 teaspoons of bicarbonate of Ammonia
¾ pound butter - melted
1 stick Crisco – melted
2½ cups sugar
7 cups Flour + more as needed

Flour – slowly as needed + more if required
This recipe may use as much as 5 to 6 lbs

Pre heat oven to 400ยบ F

Beat eggs with the sugar not too stiff.
Add the melted butter and Crisco and mix all very well.
Start a well of 7 cups of flour, prepare 1 cup of warm water and dilute the bicarbonate of Ammonia poured into the well along with the beaten sugar and egg mixture
Star kneading and add flour a ½ cup at a time until it is smooth.
If all the flour is mixed in and dough is soft add, again in ½ cup increments, until smooth and not sticky.
Cover with plastic and allow to rest for at least an hour or so.
Cut small amounts the size of a golf ball - roll out to ¼ inch thickness and add fig preparation roll and cut into shapes.
Bake for 20 minutes in lower part of oven and about 20 minutes in the top part – until they are nice and brown

Filling
2 - 12 ounce packages of dried figs
the rind of 2 large oranges – grated
½ pound of walnuts, roasted and chopped
½ cup sugar
½ cup water
2 Tbsp lemon juice

Boil enough water to drop the dry figs to soften – 1 to 2 minutes
If you have an old meat grinder, grind the figs and place in a sauce pot to cook.
Or chop by hand to a very small consistency and then put through a food processor with a tablespoon or so of water or better a food mill.

Along with the figs place all the ingredients in a sauce pan and cook for 15 to 20 minutes – stirring constantly and adding small amounts of water if needed. It must have the consistence of marmalade
Place in a wide dish and allow to cool overnight before using.

Now go back to step 7 and place dabs into the rolled out dough.